Old-Fashioned Orange Layer Cake with Boiled Frosting

Orange Layer Cake

Old community and church cookbooks almost never contain pictures of foods made using the recipes (or pages printed in color), so when I was looking through a 1926 cookbook from Cherokee, Iowa I was surprised to see a beautiful color drawing of an Orange Layer Cake.

The picture was on a page containing an advertisement for Swans Down Cake Flour. The cookbook also contained the recipe for the cake. Apparently, Swans Down was an advertising sponsor for the cookbook. And, the company must have paid a lot, because this was the only color page in the book. Here’s the picture and the original recipe: Orange Cake

Recipe for Orange Cake — Source: Westminster Cook Book 1926 (Cherokee, Iowa)

The cake looked delicious, and each time I flipped through the cookbook, it seemed to almost automatically open to the page with the Swans Down advertisement. After about the tenth time I looked at the picture, I decided to make the recipe. Could I replicate this beautiful cake?

The cake pictured in the old cookbook was a 3-layer cake; but, the recipe was for a 2-layer cake. The directions say, “Bake in 2 layers or double recipe for 3 large layers.” I decided to double the recipe so that my cake would look like the image in the cookbook.

The cake I made looked beautiful and I was pleased with how it turned out, but it was a huge cake, so when I updated the recipe, I did what the old cookbook author did. I provided directions for a two-layer cake with a note that it can be doubled to make a three-layer cake.

The cake in the old drawing has an orangish tint, and the filling is a bright orange. The actual filling I made was not very orange, and had more of a beige hue. Similarly, the cake was yellow, rather than orange. I considered using food coloring to make the filling and the cake orange, but decided against it. Even without the artificial dyes in food coloring, the cake looked lovely.

The old recipe called for a teaspoon of “flavoring.” I used orange extract.

I did not use a double boiler when making the Orange Filling. I just stirred it constantly, and it worked fine. I did not have any issues with the bottom of the filling burning.

The cake recipe says to ice the cake with boiled icing, but did not include a recipe for it, so I found a Boiled Frosting recipe in another 1926 cookbook:

Recipe for Boiled Frosting — Source: The New Winston Cook Book of Guaranteed Recipes (1926)

I decided to go with the option that called for using two egg whites.

The Boiled Frosting, which is sometimes called Seven Minute Frosting, had a glossy finish and was light and airy. It brought back memories of the tasty frosting on cakes that great aunts made for family reunions years ago.

The bottom line is that this is a very tasty, beautiful cake. The cake layers had lovely texture, the Orange Filling had a bright and sunny citrus taste, and the Boiled Frosting was delectable. It takes time to make and assemble this cake, but it was well worth the effort.

Orange Layer Cake Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Orange Layer Cake with Boiled Frosting

Servings: 12 - 15
Time: 2 hours 30 minutes
Difficulty: moderate
Print

Note: This recipe makes a 2-layer, 9- inch cake. Double the recipe to make a 3-layer, 9-inch cake.

2 eggs, separated

1/2 cup butter, softened

1 cup sugar

2/3 cup milk

3 teaspoons baking powder

2 cups cake flour

1 teaspoon orange extract

Orange Filling (see recipe below)

Boiled Frosting (see recipe below)

2 small mandarin (or other small) oranges, if desired for garnish

Step 1. Preheat oven to 375° F. Grease and flour two 9-inch baking pans.

Step 2. Beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Set aside.

Step 3. In a mixing bowl, cream together the butter and sugar. Add egg yolks and milk; beat to combine. Add flour and baking powder; beat until smooth. Fold in the beaten egg whites.

Step 4. Evenly divide the batter across the prepared pans.

Step 5. Bake for about 25 to 30 minutes or until wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean.

Step 6. Remove from oven and let cool for 15 minutes, then remove from pans and let completely cool.

Step 7. To assemble cake: If the cake layers are uneven, they may be trimmed to make the tops flat. Spread the Orange Filling between the cake layers. Ice cake with the Boiled Frosting.

Step 8. If desired, garnish cake with thinly cut half slices of oranges which has been peeled. To make the slices, cut the peeled oranges cross-sectionally into thin slices using a sharp knife. Then cut each slice in half. Arrange around the edge of the cake. (I removed the orange garnish before storing left-over cake.)

Orange Filling

1 cup sugar

5 tablespoons cake flour

1 orange rind, grated

1/2 cup orange juice

3 tablespoons lemon juice

4 tablespoons water

1 egg, beaten

2 tablespoons butter

Step 1. Put the sugar and flour in a saucepan; stir to mix. Add orange rind, orange juice, lemon juice, water, and egg. Stir to combine. Add the butter.

Step 2. Heat, using medium heat, until the filling thickens (about 10 minutes), while stirring constantly.

Step 3. Remove from heat, and allow the filling to cool to room temperature.

Boiled Frosting

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup water

2 egg whites

1 teaspoon vanilla

Step 1. Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan, then heat using medium heat. Do not stir while cooking. If a bit of the sugar mixture coats the sides of the pan above the cooking syrup, gently use a dampened paper towel or brush to remove any sugar crystals. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until the syrup reaches 235° F. (thread stage).

Step 2. In the meantime, put the egg whites in a mixing bowl and beat until stiff peaks form.

Step 3. Slowly pour the hot syrup over the beaten egg whites, while continuously beating. Beat until the mixture is glossy and shiny, and has a nice consistency for icing a cake (about 7 minutes).

http://www.ahundredyearsago.com

Old-Fashioned Pork Chops with Tomato Sauce

Pork Chops with Tomato Sauce in Skillet

Dishes made using condensed canned soups are stereotypical of mid-20th century cuisine. However, there were recipes that called for canned soups long before that. According to Wikipedia, condensed canned soups were first introduced in 1897. And, recipe authors began listing them as an ingredient in the early 20th century. I recently came across a 1926 recipe for Pork Chops with Tomato Sauce that called for condensed tomato soup.

The Pork Chops with Tomato Sauce were easy to make, made a lovely presentation, and were very tasty. The pork chops were seared on the top of the stove, and then slowly baked in the tomato soup.

I’m sure that I’ll make this recipe again. The pork chops were juicy and tender with a lovely, flavorful tomato sauce.

Here’s the original recipe:

Recipe for Pork Chops with Tomato Sauce — Source: Westminster Cook Book 1926 (Cherokee, Iowa)

This recipe is very flexible. The original recipe called for 6 to 8 pork chops, but I only made two pork chops. My skillet was large so I used the entire can of condensed tomato soup, but I could have easily just used half of the can of soup, and reserved the remainder to make a serving of soup. Similarly, if desired, as indicated in the original recipe, up to 6 to 8 pork chops could be made using one can of soup.

I seared the pork chops on top of the stove before pouring the tomato soup over them. I then placed them in the oven. The old recipe does not explicitly indicate that the pork chops should be seared, but I decided to do it to help seal in the meat juices.

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Pork Chops with Tomato Sauce

Servings: 2
Time: 1 hour 40 minutes
Difficulty: moderate
Print

2 pork chops*

2 tablespoons cooking oil (avocado oil, canola oil, olive oil)

1/2 can condensed tomato soup*

butter

salt and pepper

* If desired, more than two pork chops may be used, as long as they comfortably fit in the skillet. If additional pork chops are added, or if a large skillet is used, use the entire can of soup.

Step 1. Preheat oven to 350° F.

Step 2. Put the cooking oil in a cast iron skillet (or other heavy oven-proof skillet). On the top of the stove, heat the skillet using medium to medium-high heat. Put the pork chops in the pan and sear for 3 minutes; flip and sear the other side for 3 minutes.

Step 3. Remove from heat and spoon the condensed soup over the pork chops; spread the soup to thickly cover the pork chops. Extra soup should be spooned into the pan.

Step 4. Dot the smothered pork chops with small pieces of butter, then sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Step 5. Cover skillet (the skillet may be covered with aluminum foil if there is no lid) and place in oven. Bake for 1-2 hours depending on the thickness of the pork chops. (Check pork chops after an hour to make sure that there is still sufficient liquid in the skillet.) (I baked medium thick pork chops for about 1 hour and 15 minutes.)

http://www.ahundredyearsago.com

Updating a Hundred-Year-Old Recipe to Make It Gluten Free (with a Date Muffin Example)

Date Muffins — Photographer: Christine Rooney

When I update hundred-year-old recipes for baked goods, I regularly get comments that say something like, “I can only eat gluten-free foods. Would it be possible to convert this recipe to a gluten-free one?”

Since I’m not gluten-free, I had never revised a recipe to make it gluten-free, but I decided that now was the time to give it a try. And, I knew just the person who might be able to help. My friend Christine Rooney at The Rustic Foodie posts seasonal gluten free recipes.

I asked Christine if she’d help me adapt a hundred-year-old recipe to make it gluten free, and I was thrilled when she generously agreed.

We decided to adapt a recipe for Date Muffins. A hundred years ago, the muffins might have been served at any time during the year, but they probably were primarily a winter food. Years ago, dried dates were a very popular winter fruit. Back then, most fresh fruits weren’t available in the winter, and those few that were available (such as oranges and other citrus fruits) were quite expensive in most parts of the U.S.

Christine adapted the recipe to make it gluten free. She then made the muffins and photographed them. I also made the muffins and took them to a coffee group gathering. We then made a few final tweaks to the recipe directions.

Our adventure adapting the recipe was a success. The date muffins had a great taste and texture. The texture was somewhere between a drop biscuit and a scone; the outside was a bit crispy and the inside was moist. They were sweet; but not overly sweet. The dates gave them lovely bursts of rich caramel.

Here’s the original recipe:

Recipe for Date Muffins — Westminster Cook Book 1926 (Cherokee, Iowa)

Gluten free baked goods sometimes tend to crumble. The key to making them less crumbly is to use the right gluten free blend flour, to ensure that the batter has sufficient moisture, and not to overbake them.

Christine said that a gluten free 1-to-1 blend flour (Bob’s Red Mill Gluten Free 1-to-1 Baking Flour, Cup4Cup Gluten Free Multi-Purpose Flour, or other similar gluten free blend flour) should be used. The flour should contain xanthan. Baked goods made with gluten free flours can be crumbly because of a lack of binders in some gluten free flours. Xanthan is a binder that mimics the elasticity provided by gluten in wheat flour recipes. It helps ensure that gluten free baked goods are not crumbly. (Do not use gluten free all-purpose flour, or other gluten free flours, such as almond flour or oat flour, when making the recipe as this will likely yield different results).

Christine suggested adding a little additional milk when making the batter. Gluten free flour is a little denser and absorbs more liquid than all-purpose wheat flour. The additional milk also reduces the chance that the muffins will be crumbly.

It is also important not to overcook the muffins (they will tend to crumble) or to undercook them (they will be gummy).

And, here is the updated recipe:

Date Muffins

Servings: 12 muffins
Time: 30 minutes
Difficulty: moderate
Print

1/3 cup unsalted butter, softened (Do not melt.)

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1 egg

3/4 cup milk + an additional 2 – 3 teaspoons milk

2 cups 1-to-1 gluten free flour blend (Bob’s Red Mill Gluten Free 1-to-1 Baking Flour, Cup4Cup Gluten Free Multi-Purpose Flour, or other similar gluten free flour that contains xanthan)

4 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 pound (4 ounces) dried dates, chopped

Step 1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

Step 2. Place muffin liners in a 12-cup muffin pan.

Step 3. Put the butter and sugar in a bowl, then use an electric mixer to beat until light and fluffy.

Step 4. Add egg to the butter and sugar mixture, and beat until light and fluffy.

Step 5. In a separate bowl, put the 1-to-1 gluten free flour blend, baking powder, and kosher salt. Stir until completely combined.

Step 6. Add the butter mixture and 3/4 cup of milk to the dry ingredients alternately, stirring to combine after each addition. Continue until all of the ingredients are combined. The batter will be very thick; Add an additional 2-3 teaspoons of milk to thin it out a bit and stir again until combined. (It will still be quite thick).

Step 7. Add chopped dates to the batter and fold until combined.

Step 8. Place an equal amount of the batter into each muffin cup. (An ice cream scoop can be used to measure to help ensure that an equal amount is put in each cup.)

Step 9. Place the muffin tin in the oven and bake for approximately 20 minutes. A toothpick poked into the center should come out clean when done baking.

www.ahundredyearsago.com

Old-Fashioned Baked Succotash

Baked Succotash in Dish

Kidney bean and corn dishes are having their day in the sun. I see recipes for them all the time, and they are served at many restaurants. Last week I went out for lunch, and had a lovely kidney bean and corn salad. So I was pleased to come across a Baked Succotash recipe that called for kidney beans in a hundred-year-old magazine.

I was a little surprised by the recipe name. I generally think of succotash as a mixture of lima beans and corn, but it apparently is a general term for bean and corn combinations. In any case, I decided to give the Baked Succotash recipe a try.

In addition to the kidney beans and corn, the recipe called for a little chopped green pepper. Beaten egg is stirred into the vegetables, and then it is baked.

The Baked Succotash was tasty, but a little dry (and a few of the kidney beans split). The vegetables were lightly bonded to one another other by the egg coating, but since there was no milk, it did not have the creaminess of a scalloped vegetable dish. After I made this dish, I actually wondered why the recipe author decided to bake the succotash. If I made this recipe again, I might have a tendency just to heat the vegetables on the top of the stove . . . or I might adapt the recipe and add a white sauce to the egg to make Scalloped Succotash . . . or . . .

Bottom line: Kidney beans and corn are a wonderful combination. And, I want to make dishes with this combination again in the future, but I’ll probably experiment a little when I do rather than replicating the Baked Succotash recipe.

Here’s the original recipe:

Recipe for Baked Succotash — Source: Ladies Home Journal (May, 1926)

When I made this recipe, it took more than 30 minutes for the food to get hot and for the egg to thicken.

Here’s the Bake Succotash recipe updated for modern cooks:

Baked Succotash

Servings: 4 - 5
Time: 40 minutes
Difficulty: moderate
Print

1 egg

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

1 can kidney beans, drained and rinses

1 can corn, drained (or 1 1/2 cups frozen corn, thawed)

1 tablespoon green pepper, finely chopped

Step 1. Preheat oven to 375° F.

Step 2. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the egg, salt, and pepper.

Step 3. Add the kidney beans, corn, and green pepper. Stir gently to coat the vegetables with the egg mixture.

Step 4. Put in a baking dish (a 1-quart dish works well), and place in oven. Bake for 30 – 40 minutes, or until hot.

http://www.ahundredyearsago.com

Old-Fashioned Raisin Nut Omelet

Raisin Nut Omelet with toast on plate My weekday breakfasts are boring — think oatmeal or cereal, but I like to make breakfast foods that are a little fancier on weekends, so I was thrilled when I came across a recipe for Raisin Nut Omelet in a hundred-year-old cookbook.

The Raisin Nut Omelet is topped with a sprinkle of powdered sugar. For the omelet, the eggs are separated and the whites beaten, which makes the omelet a little fluffier than many modern omelets. The raisins (and the powdered sugar) give the omelet a lovely sweetness, and the nuts add a delightful crunchy texture. The omelet is perfect for breakfast or brunch – though it almost has a dessert-like essence and could also be served at other times of the day.

Here’s the original recipe:

Recipe for Raisin Nut Omelet — The Modern Method of Preparing Delightful Foods (1926) by Ida Bailey Allen

This recipe was in a cookbook published by the Corn Products Refining Company, so it calls for specific brands for the corn-based ingredients. When I updated the recipe, I just listed the ingredients without the brand names.

The recipe calls for cutting the raisins in half. They probably don’t really need to be cut, but I followed the recipe directions and cut them. The resulting raisin pieces were a nice size when dispersed throughout the omelet.

I could not figure out why the recipe called for boiling water (and thought it might prematurely cook some of the egg yolk), so I just used regular water.

And, here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Raisin Nut Omelet

Servings: 2 - 3
Time: 20 minutes
Difficulty: moderate
Print

5 eggs, separated

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch

1/4 cup water

1/2 cup raisins, cut in half

1/4 cup chopped nuts (I used walnuts.)

1 tablespoon olive oil or other cooking oil

powdered sugar

Step 1. Preheat oven to 350° F.

Step 2. Place egg whites in a bowl, then beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Set aside.

Step 3. In another bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then stir in the salt, corn starch, and water. Add raisins and nuts; then stir until evenly distributed in the mixture.

Step 4. Fold in the beaten egg whites.

Step 5. Grease a large oven-proof skillet (or use an omelet pan) with olive oil or cooking oil, then heat on the top of the stove using medium-low heat.

Step 6. Pour the egg mixture into skillet, and gently cook for 2 minutes. Then gently stir, lifting the cooked portion from the bottom of the pan to allow the uncooked portion to flow to the bottom. After another minute, again gently lift the cooked portion from the bottom of the pan to help ensure that the omelet cooks evenly, and gently cook for another minute.

Step 7. Move the skillet to the oven, and bake for about 8 – 10 minutes or until the egg mixture is set.

Step 8. Remove from oven, and loosen the edges and bottom of the omelet from the skillet with a spatula, then turn onto a plate.

Step 9. Fold omelet in half. Sprinkle powdered sugar on top of the omelet. Serve immediately.

http://www.ahundredyearsago.com

Old-Fashioned Red Cabbage and Apples

I recently was browsing through a hundred-year-old cookbook and came across a recipe for Red Cabbage and Apples, and decided to give it a try.

The Red Cabbage and Apples are a delightful combination. The slightly bitter cabbage works well with the sweet, tartness of the apple. It is a vibrant, attractive, tasty, side dish.

Here’s the original recipe:

Recipe for Red Cabbage and Apples — Source: 1926 cookbook compiled by the Domestic Science Class of the Peoria (IL) Women’s Club

My sense is that cabbage heads and apples typically were smaller a hundred years ago than they often are today, so instead of using a whole cabbage, I used 1/2 head of cabbage; and I used one apple rather than two.

The original recipe calls for flour browned in butter. I interpreted this to mean that the butter is browned and then the flour is stirred into it.

The old recipe does not call for any salt, but the flavor of the Red Cabbage and Apples is enhanced if a little salt is added.

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Red Cabbage and Apples

Servings: 3 - 4
Time: 20 minutes
Difficulty: moderate
Print

1/2 head red cabbage, shredded (approximately 4 – 5 cups)

water

1 tart apple (such as Granny Smith or Braeburn), peeled, cored, and coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

Step 1. Put the shredded cabbage in a large saucepan; add 1/2 inch of water. Using medium high heat, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir the cabbage once or twice while it is cooking.

Step 2. Remove from heat, and drain using a strainer. (Keep the cabbage in the pan.) Reserve the drained cabbage water.

Step 3. Add 1/2 inch of water to the cabbage. Heat again. Using medium high heat, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir the cabbage once or twice while it is cooking.

Step 4. Remove from heat and drain using a strainer. (Keep the cabbage in the pan). Again, reserve the drained juice, and add to the other reserved juice.

Step 5. In the meantime. put the butter in a skillet. Heat using medium heat. Allow it to bubble, while stirring occasionally. Continue heating until the butter turns a light brown, then stir in the flour. Gradually add some of the reserved cabbage water (about 1/2 cup), while stirring constantly. Continue stirring until it thickens. It should be about the consistency of gravy. If it is too thick add additional cabbage water. Stir in the salt.

Step 6. Pour the thickened cabbage “gravy” over the cabbage in the saucepan. Add the chopped apples. Heat until hot and bubbly (and the apples pieces are heated through), while stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and serve.

http://www.ahundredyearsago.com

Old-Fashioned Golden West Sandwich (Ham and Cheese Grilled Sandwich)

I love to eat grilled sandwiches for lunch, so was intrigued when I came across a hundred-year-old recipe for Golden West sandwiches. This is basically a recipe for a ham and cheese sandwich made using French toast.

The bread slices are sipped in an egg and milk mixture prior to grilling. The assembled ham and cheese sandwich is then grilled using medium low heat that allows sufficient time for the Swiss (or Gruyere) cheese to melt. The grilled sandwich is then topped with a tomato slice.

The Golden West Sandwich was delightful. The grilled bread was softer and moister than the typical grilled ham and cheese sandwich, and was a nice variation of this classic.

Here’s the original recipe:

Recipe for Golden West Sandwich — Source: American Cookery (October, 1926)

A spider pan is a skillet with legs. They originally were used over open fires. I just used a regular skillet to make the sandwich.

Years ago, bread crusts were sometimes removed from bread when making sandwiches. Since bread crusts are seldom removed today, I didn’t remove them when making the Golden West Sandwich.

It sounded challenging to dip the bread slices into the egg mixture after the sandwich was assembled, so I dipped the individual slices prior to making the sandwich.

I’m not sure why the old recipe calls for measuring the milk using a tablespoon. Four tablespoons of milk is the equivalent of 1/4 cup of milk, so when I updated the recipe, I went with 1/4 cup.

I used Swiss cheese when making this sandwich. The recipe gives the option of using either Swiss or Guyerë, cheese. Today, the later option is typically spelled either “Gruyere” or “Gruyère” cheese. I’m not sure whether the spelling (and the way accent markes are used) has changed across the years or if it this was a typo.

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Golden West Sandwich (Ham and Cheese Grilled Sandwich)

Servings: 1
Time: 15 minutes
Difficulty: easy
Print

2 slices bread

butter

1 egg, beaten

1/4 cup milk

2 slices Swiss or Gruyère cheese (I used Swiss cheese.)

2 – 3 thinly sliced slices of ham

1 tomato slice

Combine the egg and milk in a shallow dish or pan; stir to combine. Butter one side of the bread slices, then dip the slices in the egg and milk mixture. Put one of the slices on a plate, buttered side down. Put a slice of cheese on top of the bread slice, then the ham slices. Put the other slice of cheese on top of the ham slices. Top with the other slice of bread, with the buttered slide facing up.

Using medium low heat, melt enough butter in a skillet to cover the bottom of the pan. Add the assembled ham and cheese sandwich. Cook in the skillet until the bread on the bottom of the sandwich is toasted and golden brown, then use a spatula to gently flip the sandwich. Toast the other side, then remove from heat, top with the tomato slice, and serve.

http://www.ahundredyearsago.com