Did Women Cook “3 Times a Day, 365 Days a Year” a Hundred Years Ago?

creaming shortening and sugar
Source: Mrs. Peterson’s Simplified Cooking (1926)

Most people eat out several times a week, and many get take-out a few additional times. This differs from a hundred years ago when a much higher proportion of meals were eaten at home. Back then, most cooking was done by women, many of whom were homemakers. I’ve often heard it said that women in the early 1900s cooked 3 time a day, 365 days a year. This is an exaggeration, but probably not too far from the truth.

A hundred years ago, people sometimes ate out – at a lunch counter,  a nice restaurant, or something in between.  From time to time, people also ate at church or community picnics or pot lucks, family reunions, or holiday gatherings – though each of the women attending probably often made one or more dishes at those events. Home-packed lunches (often packed by the women in the family) were the norm for the mid-day meal for many workers and students.

The huge number of meals that many women prepared each year back then affected which dishes were made, and how they were prepared. Tasty dishes, which were also simple to make and used readily available, inexpensive ingredients, were generally preferred. Cooks also often needed to prepare meals on a very tight budget, so they planned carefully to avoid waste. Left-overs were reheated or repurposed as an ingredient in a new dish. For example, left-over potatoes might be used to make soup.

Many people today want to eat home-cooked meals, but find it challenging. They believe that they make healthier choices when they cook at home, and that it’s less expensive. They also believe that eating together improves the well-being of family member.  But there are many reasons why a lot of people don’t often make home-cooked meals. They are busy, and it takes time to cook. Family members may not have time to eat breakfast or other meals together, and they may be exhausted at dinner time after working all day. Some may find it less stressful to eat out or buy take-out. Older individuals, who once regularly cooked, sometimes “retire” from cooking and now go out or purchase prepared foods.

I don’t advocate that we go back to cooking 3 times a day, 365 days a year (frankly, that sounds boring and exhausting), but there are many health and economic benefits from cooking more meals from scratch. A friend believes that individuals today see beautifully presented dishes on blogs, Instagram, TikTok and other social media, and that they are disappointed when the dishes they make using the same recipes don’t turn out to be the “the best ever, most amazing [insert food name].” After being disappointed a few times, they decide that it’s too hard (or stressful) to cook and shift to purchasing mostly prepared foods.

Perhaps social media needs to give cooks permission to make foods that are less than perfect. Each food cooked from scratch is a learning experience. Often, they are still quite tasty, even if they don’t look perfect.

Like so many things, balance is key.  It’s important to figure out the right balance between eating out, take-out foods, and home-cooked meals. A hundred years ago, cooks generally made tasty, simple, economical dishes. We can learn something from those cooks of yore.

Old Fashioned Egg and Olive Sandwiches

Egg and Olive Sandwich on plate

HAPPY EASTER!

A few days ago, I colored hard-boiled eggs with my grandchildren. We had lots and lots of fun coloring and decorating the Easter eggs, but we ended up with lots of them. I then needed to figure out how to use all those eggs, which (me being me) sent me to my hundred-year-old cookbooks.

I found two versions of recipes for Egg and Olive Sandwiches, and concluded that they must be good if the cookbook author liked them enough to provide two options. Here are the original recipes:

Egg and Olive Sandwich Recipes
Source: The New Winston Cook Book of Guaranteed Recipes

I decided to make the first option. The Egg and Olive Sandwiches were wonderful. The egg salad was nicely seasoned, and the olives added additional zest and tanginess.

The recipe does not say whether green or black olives should be used. I decided to go with green olive that were stuffed with pimento. The recipe also does not provide guidance regarding the amounts of olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. I used 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper, about 2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, and 2  1/2 tablespoons of vinegar. When I made this recipe, I tasted the egg mixture after putting in a little vinegar and thought it seemed a bit bland, so added a little additional vinegar to make it tangier. Similarly, the original amount of olive oil and vinegar that I used was insufficient to make the mixture cling together, so I added a little more.

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Egg and Olive Sandwiches

  • Servings: 2 - 4 sandwiches
  • Difficulty: easy
  • Print

4 hard-boiled eggs

1/4 teaspoon salt (If the olives are very salty, use a little less salt.)

1/8 teaspoon pepper

2 1/2 tablespoons olive oil + more, if needed

2 1/2 tablespoons vinegar + more, if needed

2 tablespoons chopped green stuffed olives

bread slices

butter, if desired

Step 1. Mash or finely chop the hard-boiled eggs.

Step 2. Add the salt, pepper, olive oil, and vinegar; stir to combine.

Step 3. Taste the egg mixture. If it does not taste as tangy as desired, add a little more vinegar. If the mixture is not clinging together, add a little additional olive oil and vinegar.

Step 4. Stir in the chopped olives.

Step 5. Spread on slices of bread (buttered, if desired), and top with additional slices of bread.

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1926 Easter Menus

Easter dinner menus
Source: Good Housekeeping (April, 1926)

There are several foods I generally make for Easter dinner – ham, deviled eggs, rhubarb sponge pie. Other dishes vary from years to year. Some years, I’ll make an asparagus dish; other years it might be another vegetable. I usually make potatoes, but they might be mashed one year and scalloped the next.

I recently found several hundred-year-old menus for Easter dinner and Easter luncheons in the April, 1926 issue of Good Housekeeping.  I was surprised that none of the menus featured ham, and somehow think that Molded Chicken and Cucumber Salad on Watercress might not be a hit at my house. But it’s hard to tell since the magazine didn’t publish any of the recipes. Instead, readers were directed to send a two-cent stamp so that the recipes could be sent to them.

Wow, it’s amazing what you could get for a two-cents in 1926. I’m guessing that a Good Housekeeping employee wrote the name and address of the person requesting the recipes on an envelope that contained the recipes. The two-cent stamp was then pasted on the envelop and it was sent out to the reader. What a deal!

Old-Fashioned Carrot and Celery Salad

Carrot and Celery Salad in dish

Occasionally, a hundred-year-old recipe brings back vivid memories. I recently came across a recipe in a 1926 cookbook for a Carrot and Celery Salad. Suddenly long forgotten memories flowed back. Easter dinner and other family gatherings were often held at my parents’ home, and my mother generally served a Carrot Salad. When my brother and I were in elementary school, we assisted in preparing the big meal. Mom always found fun, but easy tasks for us. A favorite kid task was to grate carrots for Carrot Salad.

For some reason, I can’t remember much about those Carrot Salads. I don’t know what the other ingredients were or what they tasted like. I just know that it was fun grating carrots.

In any case, when I saw the old recipe for a Carrot Salad that contained carrots and celery, I immediately knew that I wanted to make it, and I’m glad I did. The Carrot and Celery Salad was quick and easy to make. It only contained three ingredients: grated carrots, chopped celery, and a little mayonnaise to bind everything together.

This salad is a winner. The slight sweetness of the carrots combined with the crunchiness of the celery, and the rich, tanginess of the mayonnaise was delightful.

Here’s the original recipe:

Carrot Salad Recipe
Source: Pennsylvania State Grange Cook Book (1926)

I decided to put the salad in a bowl rather than on lettuce leaves. The recipe does not provide any details about the salad dressing. The same cookbook also contained another recipe for “Carrot Salads” which suggests that mayonnaise should be used as the salad dressing, so I went with that when updating this recipe. Here is the old Carrot Salads recipe:

Recipe for Carrot Salads
Source: Pennsylvania State Grange Cook Book (1926)

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Carrot and Celery Salad

  • Servings: 4 - 6
  • Difficulty: easy
  • Print

2 cups grated carrot

1 cup celery, chopped

1/4 mayonnaise

Put all ingredients in bowl; stir to combine, then put in serving dish.

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Old-Fashioned Chicken Wiggles (Creamed Chicken with Vegetables and Walnuts)

I was flipped through a hundred-year-old cookbook, and a recipe for Chicken Wiggles caught my eye. What was this food with such a strange name?

I read the recipe, and it was a recipe for creamed chicken, peas, celery, and walnuts.  Chicken Wiggles is served on toast (though it would also work well with rice). I’m always looking for tasty lunch foods, so I decided to give the recipe a try.

Chicken Wiggles was delightful. It is somewhat similar to Chicken a la King, but the walnuts added a delightful crunch. And, celery is not typically included in Chicken a la King recipes.

Intrigued by the name, I did an online search for “wiggle recipes” and discovered that there is also a dish called Shrimp Wiggle. Wiggles are quick and easy to prepare. According to The Takeout, the recipe for Shrimp Wiggle was even included in some editions of The Joy of Cooking.

Wiggles were a popular chafing dish food a hundred-year-ago, and college students sometimes made them in their dorm rooms using cans of Sterno, often for late night impromptu parties.

Here is the original recipe:

Recipe for Chicken Wiggles
Source: 1926 cookbook compiled by the Domestic Science Class of the Peoria (IL) Women’s Club

This recipe calls for English walnuts. Years ago, regular walnuts were often referred to as English walnuts to distinguish them from black walnuts.

It worked fine to use egg yolks as the thickening agent in this recipe  – though I wondered why flour wasn’t used to make a more typical white sauce. (When egg yolks are used to thicken a sauce, care needs to be used to keep the egg from curdling when added to the hot mixture.) Then I realized that this is a gluten free recipe. Gluten allergies were not a specific identified issue a hundred years ago, but people did more generally recognize food allergies. This recipe makes me wonder if the recipe author was allergic to wheat flour.

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Chicken Wiggles (Creamed Chicken with Vegetables and Walnuts

  • Servings: 3 - 5
  • Difficulty: moderate
  • Print

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup milk

2 egg yolks

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon salt

1 cup cooked chicken, cut into 1/2 inch pieces

1/2 cup green peas (canned, frozen, or fresh)

1/2 cup celery, chopped

1/2 cup walnuts, chopped

toast

Step 1. Put the cream and milk in a saucepan, and scald using medium heat while stirring continuously.

Step 2. In the meantime, put egg yolks in a small bowl; stir until smooth. Place a small amount (approximately 1 – 2 tablespoons) of hot milk mixture into the bowl with the egg yolk, stir quickly. (The egg is first combined with a little of the hot mixture to prevent it from turning into scrambled eggs when introduced into the hot combination.)  Add the egg mixture to the remaining hot mixture in the saucepan; stir.

Step 3. Add butter and salt. Cook until it thickens while stirring continuously.

Step 4. Stir in peas and celery; cook until heated through.

Step 5. Add walnuts; stir, and remove from heat.

Step 6. Serve immediately on toast (Rice could be substituted for the toast.)

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Were Muffins Less Sweet a Hundred Years Ago?

I have coffee with friends each Wednesday morning, and I frequently take a treat. I often make muffins. Occasionally I make hundred-year-old muffin recipes, and have my friends taste test them; but, often I make modern muffin recipes that I find online. Over time, I’ve come to the conclusion that modern muffin recipes generally are much sweeter than old-time ones.

For example, several years ago I made a hundred-year-old Blueberry Muffin recipe that called for 1 tablespoon of sugar. Most modern Blueberry Muffin recipes call for much more. The Glorious Treats Blueberry Muffins recipe calls for 1 cup of sugar.  Sally’s Baking Addiction Blueberry Muffin recipe calls for 1 1/4 cups sugar (1/2 cup granulated sugar + 1/4 cup brown sugar + an additional 1/2 cup brown sugar for the topping).  The exact number of muffins varied a little from recipe to recipe (mainly dependent on exactly how full the muffin cups were filled), but the recipes all made a similar number of muffins.

Similarly, modern Pumpkin Muffin recipes call for lots of sugar. The King Arthur Pumpkin Muffin recipe calls for slightly over 1 cup of sugar (3/4 cup granulated sugar + 1/4 cup brown sugar + additional granulated sugar to sprinkle on the top).  Joy Food Sunshine’s recipe for Pumpkin Muffins calls for  1 1/2 cups of sugar (3/4 cup granulated sugar + 3/4 cup brown sugar. However, a hundred-year-old recipe for Squash Muffins (pumpkin could easily be substituted for the squash) only called for 1/4 cup of sugar.

Why were muffins generally less sweet a hundred years ago? I don’t know, but my hypothesis is that today they are considered a treat or sweet breakfast bread, while years ago they were frequently eaten as a dinner roll.

Old-Fashioned Orange Layer Cake with Boiled Frosting

Orange Layer Cake

Old community and church cookbooks almost never contain pictures of foods made using the recipes (or pages printed in color), so when I was looking through a 1926 cookbook from Cherokee, Iowa I was surprised to see a beautiful color drawing of an Orange Layer Cake.

The picture was on a page containing an advertisement for Swans Down Cake Flour. The cookbook also contained the recipe for the cake. Apparently, Swans Down was an advertising sponsor for the cookbook. And, the company must have paid a lot, because this was the only color page in the book. Here’s the picture and the original recipe:Orange Cake

Recipe for Orange Cake
Source: Westminster Cook Book 1926 (Cherokee, Iowa)

The cake looked delicious, and each time I flipped through the cookbook, it seemed to almost automatically open to the page with the Swans Down advertisement. After about the tenth time I looked at the picture, I decided to make the recipe. Could I replicate this beautiful cake?

The cake pictured in the old cookbook was a 3-layer cake; but, the recipe was for a 2-layer cake. The directions say, “Bake in 2 layers or double recipe for 3 large layers.” I decided to double the recipe so that my cake would look like the image in the cookbook.

The cake I made looked beautiful and I was pleased with how it turned out, but it was a huge cake, so when I updated the recipe, I did what the old cookbook author did. I provided directions for a two-layer cake with a note that it can be doubled to make a three-layer cake.

The cake in the old drawing has an orangish tint, and the filling is a bright orange. The actual filling I made was not very orange, and had more of a beige hue. Similarly, the cake was yellow, rather than orange. I considered using food coloring to make the filling and the cake orange, but decided against it.  Even without the artificial dyes in food coloring, the cake looked lovely.

The old recipe called for a teaspoon of “flavoring.” I used orange extract.

I did not use a double boiler when making the Orange Filling. I just stirred it constantly, and it worked fine. I did not have any issues with the bottom of the filling burning.

The cake recipe says to ice the cake with boiled icing, but did not include a recipe for it, so I found a Boiled Frosting recipe in another 1926 cookbook:

Recipe for Boiled Frosting
Source: The New Winston Cook Book of Guaranteed Recipes (1926)

I decided to go with the option that called for using two egg whites.

The Boiled Frosting, which is sometimes called Seven Minute Frosting, had a glossy finish and was light and airy. It brought back memories of the tasty frosting on cakes that great aunts made for family reunions years ago.

The bottom line is that this is a very tasty, beautiful cake. The cake layers had lovely texture, the Orange Filling had a bright and sunny citrus taste, and the Boiled Frosting was delectable. It takes time to make and assemble this cake, but it was well worth the effort.

Orange Layer CakeHere’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Orange Layer Cake with Boiled Frosting

  • Servings: 12 - 15
  • Difficulty: moderate
  • Print

Note: This recipe makes a 2-layer, 9- inch cake. Double the recipe to make a 3-layer, 9-inch cake.

2 eggs, separated

1/2 cup butter, softened

1 cup sugar

2/3 cup milk

3 teaspoons baking powder

2 cups cake flour

1 teaspoon orange extract

Orange Filling (see recipe below)

Boiled Frosting (see recipe below)

2 small mandarin (or other small) oranges, if desired for garnish

Step 1. Preheat oven to 375° F. Grease and flour two 9-inch baking pans.

Step 2. Beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Set aside.

Step 3. In a mixing bowl, cream together the butter and sugar.  Add egg yolks and milk; beat to combine. Add flour and baking powder; beat until smooth. Fold in the beaten egg whites.

Step 4. Evenly divide the batter across the prepared pans.

Step 5. Bake for about 25 to 30 minutes or until wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean.

Step 6. Remove from oven and let cool for 15 minutes, then remove from pans and let completely cool.

Step 7. To assemble cake: If the cake layers are uneven, they may be trimmed to make the tops flat. Spread the Orange Filling between the cake layers. Ice cake with the Boiled Frosting.

Step 8. If desired, garnish cake with thinly cut half slices of oranges which has been peeled. To make the slices, cut the peeled oranges cross-sectionally into thin slices using a sharp knife. Then cut each slice in half. Arrange around the edge of the cake. (I removed the orange garnish before storing left-over cake.)

Orange Filling

1 cup sugar

5 tablespoons cake flour

1 orange rind, grated

1/2 cup orange juice

3 tablespoons lemon juice

4 tablespoons water

1 egg, beaten

2 tablespoons butter

Step 1. Put the sugar and flour in a saucepan; stir to mix. Add orange rind, orange juice, lemon juice, water, and egg. Stir to combine. Add the butter.

Step 2. Heat, using medium heat, until the filling thickens (about 10 minutes), while stirring constantly.

Step 3. Remove from heat, and allow the filling to cool to room temperature.

Boiled Frosting

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup water

2 egg whites

1 teaspoon vanilla

Step 1. Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan, then heat using medium heat. Do not stir while cooking. If a bit of the sugar mixture coats the sides of the pan above the cooking syrup, gently use a dampened paper towel or brush to remove any sugar crystals. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer until the syrup reaches 235° F. (thread stage).

Step 2. In the meantime, put the egg whites in a mixing bowl and beat until stiff peaks form.

Step 3.  Slowly pour the hot syrup over the beaten egg whites, while continuously beating. Beat until the mixture is glossy and shiny, and has a nice consistency for icing a cake (about 7 minutes).

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