When baking, many cooks a hundred years ago used a variety of informal ways to figure out whether an oven was very hot, hot, or less hot. However, times were changing and recipes were beginning to indicate the temperature that should be used. This was confusing to some cooks. The April, 1924 issue of Ladies Home Journal advocated for the use of oven thermometers. Here’s a few excepts:

Taking the Hazards and Heartaches Out of Baking: Oven Thermometers Save You Time and Money

Commercial bakers have been using temperature methods these many years in order to produce uniform baking results, while the majority of women who do their own baking still depend upon the hit-or-miss way of oven regulation. The housewife who has used the same range for a long period of time usually judges fairly well, but the inexperienced cook is completely at a loss when she is told to thrust her hand in the oven and count ten, or given some other antiquated method of judging heat.

No longer need women employ such indefiniteness for there are on the market at the present time small portable oven thermometers, reasonably durable in construction, which make guess work in baking a thing of the past, and put the home kitchen on a par with the scientifically correct bakeries of commercial use.

One can depend on the results every time. There is no chance for burnt or underdone food, once you have learned the control of your oven by temperature. This means a real saving in money because food is not wasted. There’s an added saving, too, for one never need worry about results.

Temperature can play a large part in accomplishing perfection in cake baking. A dependable recipe and painstaking mixing are essential, but more cakes are spoiled in the baking than in any other way. This because, by the ordinary method, there has been no way of being absolutely sure that your baking oven today was just like it was yesterday. Luck, good or bad, is a nonessential factor in cake baking if the temperature method outlined is adopted. It becomes an accurate science in which the terrors of possible failure have no place. Different types of cake batter require baking at different temperatures, but the size and depth of the pan also have their effect.

Does anyone host formal dinners anymore? I don’t. They seem like something from the past – though apparently formal dinners were on their way out even a hundred years ago. Here’s what it said in a 1924 cookbook:

A formal dinner is an expensive and elaborate affair not to be undertaken unless one has at her command plenty of help and plenty of money. Very few really formal dinners are given nowadays except in those circles of society where the rigors of etiquette are punctiliously observed. We live in an informal age, and yet through all our informality we observe, generally, more rules of correct usage than the average family has ever done before. That is, there are more of us trying to follow the rules of good manners and consideration (upon which quality all good manner are built) than was the case when one element of society lived and moved by rule, and the rest of it went as it pleased.

The Modern Priscilla Cook Book: One Thousand Home Tested Recipes (1924)

Organ meats were more popular a hundred years ago than what they are now. I don’t have a clue where to buy many of the glands and organs described in a 1924 cookbook.

A hundred-year-old promotional cookbook for Crisco shortening had drawings showing how to measure a spoonful (or a half- or quarter-spoonful) of shortening. I knew that the spoon should be scaped to accurately measure a spoonful of shortening. I never would have thought of cutting lengthwise for 1/2 spoonful.

It was expensive to print color pages in a book in 1924. Apparently the cookbook publisher thought that directions for measuring a spoonful of shortening was a high-interest topic. Who would have guessed?

Time to make doughnuts. It will be Fasnacht Day next week. Here’s what I wrote back in 2022:

When I was a child growing up in Pennsylvania, Fasnacht Day (the day before Ash Wednesday) was always a day when we ate doughnuts. Fasnacht Day was supposed to be a day to eat indulgent foods before the beginning of Lent – and doughnuts with their sugar and fat were considered the ultimate in indulgent foods. It is also known as Fat Tuesday or Shrove Tuesday.

A Hundred Years Ago, February 27, 2022

Sometimes it’s tricky to make good doughnuts. Here are a few tips in a hundred-year-old cookbook for frying crullers, doughnuts, and fritters:

CRULLERS, DOUGHNUTS, AND FRITTERS

Facts to Remember

The products of deep fat frying have a reputation for indigestibility which is deserved only when there is something wrong with the procedure. One difficulty is that under certain conditions food absorb more fat in frying than can be easily taken care of by the digestion, and another, that at a certain temperature, differing with each kind of fat, a change takes place which develops an indigestible product called acreolin. This is recognizable by its acrid odor. Fat should never if used after it has reach this point.

The temperature of the fat is of upmost importance in frying. If it is not hot enough the food absorbs fat; if too hot the outside browns before the inner part is thoroughly cooked. A thermometer is essential for the inexperienced cook in controlling the temperature, and it is advisable in any case.

Next to the frying temperature, experience in handling the dough is the most important part of doughnut making.

Dough which has been chilled can be more easily handled and absorbs less fat than the same dough at room temperature. In putting doughnuts into the fat, have the part which has been next to the moulding board uppermost.

Only a few doughnuts or fritters should be fried at one time, because the cold dough cools the fat rapidly.

Fried foods should be drained on absorbent paper.

There is no marked difference in the amount of absorption power for the various fats and oils in common use.

Modern Priscilla Cook Book: One Thousand Home Tested Recipes (1924)

Today people often eat meatless meals for health, environmental, ethical, cost, or religious reasons. A hundred years ago people also sometimes ate meatless meals. Some of the reasons were probably the same – others different.

Today we tend to think of gluten in a negative way. But here is what it said about gluten in a 1924 cookbook:

BREADS

. . . The protein in flour is in the form of gluten, and while elasticity is a property of all proteins, the gluten of wheat possesses this property in marked degree. This strong elastic gluten makes a good framework to retain the air and carbon dioxide, and renders wheat the ideal grain for bread making. The protein in oats and corn are deficient in this property and when used in bread making are combined with wheat.

Wheat and flour vary greatly in the quantity of gluten present; even the same variety of wheat will vary from season to season. Also, in connection with the kind of wheat, the time of planting affects the quantity and quality of the gluten. Spring wheat sown in the spring and harvested the same season contains more protein and, consequently, more gluten than winter wheat sown in the fall and harvested in the early part of the summer. Flour from spring wheat, rich in gluten, is well adapted to bread making and is known as bread flour. It is creamy in color, granular to the touch and passes through a sieve easily; a slight jar sends it through. Flour from winter wheat is whiter in color and soft to the touch; if a quantity be crushed in the hand it will retain the impress of the lines in the hand. It tastes sweet. It is adapted to the making of starch. It is adapted to the making of cake and pastry articles; foods in which delicacy rather than strength is sought. Such flour is known as pastry flour.

Source: The Whys of Cooking by Janet McKenzie Hill (1924)