Old-Fashioned Apple Griddle Cakes

Fall is in the air. The trees are turning color, and the nights are getting nippier – and it’s apple season. Apples are so versatile. Biting into a fresh juicy apple is a treat, and they can be used to make tasty salads, side dishes, and desserts. When browsing through a hundred-year-old magazine I came across a recipe for Apple Griddle Cakes and decided to give it a try.

My sense is that griddle cakes and pancakes are interchangeable terms. There may be regional variation regarding which is used.

The Apple Griddle Cakes were delectable. They were light and almost airy with sweet and chewy bits of apple. I started to write that the griddle cakes were light and fluffy, but then I realized that many recipes state that the recipe makes “light and fluffy” griddle cakes. This recipe is different from most because it calls for separating the eggs, beating the egg whites, and then folding them into the griddle cake batter. Most modern recipes just call for adding the entire egg with all the other ingredients.

Most apple recipes today call for cinnamon; however, the old recipe did not call for using any. This allowed the natural sweet and tangy flavor of the apples to be more prominent in the griddle cakes.

Another difference between this recipe and other griddle cake recipes is that it calls for small pieces of torn bread (bread crumbs) that have been soaked in milk. A hundred years ago, cooks didn’t want to waste food, and this recipe was a way to use stale bread (or bread crusts).

Here is the original recipe:

apple griddles cakes on plate — Source: Ladies Home Journal (November, 1925)

recipe for Apple Griddle Cakes — Source: Ladies Home Journal (November, 1925)

This recipe was included in an advertisement for Crisco. (Yes, Crisco has been around for more than a hundred years, though the ingredients have been tweaked several times over the years.). When I updated the recipe, I used melted butter instead of the Crisco.

A hundred years ago, this recipe probably was a good way to use stale bread that was very dry and firm, so the bread crumbs may have needed to soak overnight to soften. However, I decided to use some whole wheat bread that I recently purchased. I just tore up several slices of the bread and soaked it in the milk. It did not take more than a few minutes for the bread to become mushy. I did not heat the milk. After the bread softened, I just used electric beaters to turn it into a paste.

One large apple made approximately one cup of chopped apples.

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Apple Griddle Cakes

Servings: 4 - 5
Time: 25 minutes
Difficulty: moderate
Print

2 cups bread, torn into small pieces

2 cups milk

2 eggs, separated

1 tablespoon butter, melted

1 tablespoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 cup flour

1 cup chopped apples (1 large apple)

Put the bread crumbs into a bowl and pour the milk over them. Let the bread soak until it is soft and mushy. This will only take a few minutes in many cases; it may take up to several hours if the bread is extremely stale and dry.)

In the meantime, put the egg whites in a bowl and beat until stiff peaks form. Set aside.

Once the bread crumbs have softened, beat the bread and milk mixture with electric beaters to make a paste. Add the egg yolks, butter, sugar, salt, and flour; beat until thoroughly mixed. Gently fold in the beaten egg whites; then, using a fork, stir in the chopped apples.

Heat a lightly greased griddle or skillet to a medium temperature, then pour or scoop the batter onto the hot surface to make individual pancakes. Cook until the top surface is hot and bubbly, and then flip and cook other side.

http://www.ahundredyearsago.com

Old-Fashioned Mock Nut Bread (Grape Nuts Bread)

A 1925 recipe supplement in a Sioux Falls, South Dakota newspaper contained a recipe for Mock Nut Bread. Intrigued, I decided to give it a try. The “mock nuts” were Grape Nut cereal nuggets.

Grape Nuts is fiber rich, has a crunchy texture, and contains whole wheat and malted barley flour. It has been around for more than 125 years. Originally developed as a health food, Grape Nuts has a long-fascinating history. In 1933, Grape Nuts sponsored Admiral Byrd’s expedition to Antarctica. During World War II, the rations of some troops included Grape Nuts. And, the first individuals to reach the summit of Mount Everest, Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, brought Grape Nuts with them when they climbed the mountain.

This recipe made a lovely, hearty quick bread. I especially enjoyed eating warm Mock Nut Bread when topped with some of the Pear Honey I recently made.

I liked Mock Nut Bread, but was disappointed that it did not have a nut bread texture or taste. The Grape Nut nuggets soften during baking, and the bread is not crunchy. I also was a little disappointed that the bread was not especially attractive. The Grape Nut nuggets make the top of the bread loaves look lumpy, but maybe that is part of its rustic appeal.

Here’s the original recipe:

Recipe for Mock Nut Bread — Source – Home Economics and Cook Book: The Daily Argus-Leader (Sioux Falls, South Dakota), Supplement – March 13, 1925

The recipe says to mold into loaves. This recipe did not make a dough thick enough to mold; instead it makes a thick batter that can be poured into the pans.

The original recipe called for adding the flour and baking powder prior to adding the Grape Nuts. I reversed the order when I updated the recipe. It is difficult to fully incorporate the flour and baking powder into the batter after the Grape Nut cereal has been added.

The recipe also says to bake the bread in two “small” bread pans. This does not refer to the small personal-sized bread pans that are available today, but rather to what I call “regular-sized” bread pans (8 1/2 ” X 4 1/2″ X 2 1/2 inches).

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Mock Nut Bread (Grape Nuts Bread)

Servings: 10 - 12
Time: 1 hour 10 minutes
Difficulty: easy
Print

Slice of Mock Nut Bread

1 egg

2 tablespoons brown sugar

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups milk

4 teaspoons baking powder

4 cups flour

1 cup Grape Nuts cereal

Preheat oven to 350° F. Put the egg, brown sugar, salt, and milk in a mixing bowl; beat until combined. Add baking powder and flour; beat until thoroughly mixed. (The batter will be very thick.) Add the Grape Nuts; stir until they are evenly distributed throughout the batter. Pour into 2 prepared regular (not large) bread pans (8 1/2″ X 4 1/2″ X 2 1/2″). Bake for 40 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in the center comes out clean. Partially cool, then remove from pans.

http://www.ahundredyearsago.com

Hundred-Year-Old Tips for Serving and Eating Small Cucumber Pickles (Gherkins)

My sense is that small cucumber pickles, which are often called gherkins, were more popular years ago than they are now. I can’t remember the last time I saw them at a potluck dinner or family gathering, but when I was a child, they were served in lovely relish dishes at every holiday meal. Until I saw a short piece in the 1925 issue of a cooking magazine about how to serve and eat small cucumber pickles, I never thought about whether gherkins were popular a hundred years ago, or if they became popular later in the 20th century.

The magazine provides detailed, but, in my opinion, very confusing information about how to serve gherkins. I think (but am not positive) that the article provides tips for serving them when hosting a dinner at home, as well as how a waitress should serve them at a restaurant or event.

How to Serve and Eat Small Cucumber Pickles

Small pickled cucumbers may be served with meat or fish at a dinner or luncheon, either by placing a portion on the dinner plate, or by having the waitress offer them. Very wee gherkins may be served like olives, for hors d’oeuvres. If the waitress serves them, it should be with a fork or spoon, and if offered as an accompaniment, we think the guest should help themself by means of a fork or spoon, placed in the dish. But if the gherkins are a substitute for olives, and served in the little hors d’oeuvres dishes, they may then be offered to one another by the guests between the courses, and eaten as finger foods, like olives. At a large and formal dinner, the hors d’oeuvres are often offered by the waitress, and a spoon or fork may then be placed in the dish.

American Cookery (February, 1925)

Did you follow all that? It’s hard to believe that serving gherkins was so complicated. Apparently, gherkins were considered a gourmet food a hundred years ago, and many readers were somewhat unfamiliar with them.

Old-Fashioned Pear Honey

Pears are a delightful, but sometimes overlooked, Fall fruit. I recently came across a hundred-year-old recipe for Pear Honey and decided to give it a try. Pear Honey does not actually contain any honey; rather it is a delightful spread that is lovely on bread, toast, pancakes, and other foods. The Pear Honey was sweet with a nuanced tanginess and notes of citrus.

Here is the original recipe:

A hundred years ago many children attended small (often one-room) schools. The original recipe suggests using Pear Honey when making school lunches. Peanut Butter and Pear Honey sandwiches would be a nice change of pace from the usual Peanut Butter and Jelly sandwiches.

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Pear Honey

Servings: 7 - 8 half-pint jars
Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Difficulty: moderate
Print

12 Bartlett pears

4 cups water

4 cups sugar

juice from 2 lemons

Peel pears, cut into halves, core, and then grate the pears. Put the grated pears into a Dutch oven or other large pan, and add the water. Do not cover pan. Bring to a boil using medium heat, then reduce heat and gently simmer for 1/2 hour. Stir occasionally. Add sugar, and continue cooking until it is translucent and begins to thicken (approximately an additional 15 – 20 minutes). Remove from heat and stir in the lemon juice.

Ladle into hot one-half pint jars to within 1/4 inch of the top. Wipe jar rim and adjust lids. Process in boiling water bath for 10 minutes.

http://www.ahundredyearsago.com

Old-Fashioned Chocolate Meringue Pudding

Chocolate pudding is a favorite around my house, so when I saw a hundred-year-old recipe for it (with the twist of topping the pudding with meringue), I just had to give it a try.

The Chocolate Meringue Pudding was rich and creamy, and had just the right amount of sweetness. The delicate and airy meringue with its distinctive crispy exterior almost melted in my mouth and worked well with the chocolatey pudding.

Except for the ubiquitous Lemon Meringue Pie, I seldom see desserts today with meringue toppings. It seems strange to me that meringue seems to be somewhat out of style when it is such a delightful dessert topping.

Meringue looks like it would be hard to make, but it actually is very easy. It only takes a few minutes to beat the egg whites into stiff peaks with an electric mixer, and it is easy to pile the meringue on top of a dessert – and it always looks awesome after the meringue has been lightly browned in the oven. Cooks a hundred years ago would have typically beaten the egg whites by hand or used a hand mixer. It would have taken much longer to beat the egg whites back then – but meringue was more popular back then. Go figure.

Here’s the original recipe:

Recipe for Chocolate Meringue Pudding — Source: The Daily Argus-Leader Home Economics and Cook Book (Newspaper Supplement), Sioux Falls, South Dakota (1925)

This recipe makes a relatively small amount of pudding, and was the perfect amount for my husband and me.

Here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Chocolate Meringue Pudding

Servings: 2-3
Time: 55 minutes
Difficulty: moderate
Print

2 cups milk

3 tablespoons corn starch

1 ounce unsweetened baking chocolate (2 1/2-ounce squares)

2 eggs, separated

1/2 cup powdered sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat oven to 350° F. Put 1/2 cup milk and the cornstarch in a small bowl; stir until combined and smooth. Put the remaining 2 1/2 cups of milk and the baking chocolate in a saucepan. Using medium heat scald the milk while stirring constantly. Gradually add the cornstarch mixture while continuing to stir. Reduce heat to low, and cook for 15 minutes while stirring constantly. (It is important to stir to the bottom of the pan and to keep the temperature low to avoid scorching the pudding at the bottom of the pan.) Remove from heat.

Put egg yolks in a small bowl and beat with a whisk or fork until smooth. Place a small amount (approximately 1 – 2 tablespoons) of the hot mixture into dish with the beaten egg; stir quickly, then gradually add the egg combination to the hot mixture while stirring rapidly. (The egg yolks are first combined with a little of the hot mixture to prevent them from turning into scrambled eggs when introduced into the hot combination.) Reserve 2 tablespoons of the powdered sugar, then add the remaining sugar and salt into the hot mixture; stir to combine. Put the mixture in a baking dish and bake for 20 minutes.

In the meantime, make the meringue. Place egg whites in a bowl, and beat the egg whites until they form stiff peaks. Gradually add the 2 tablespoons of powdered sugar and vanilla while continuing to beat.

Remove pudding from oven and spoon the meringue on top and swirl decoratively. Return to oven and cook for an additional 8-10 minutes or until the meringue is lightly browned. Can be served hot or cold.

http://www.ahundredyearsago.com

How to Scrape New Potatoes with a Knife

Recently harvested new potatoes are delectable. These small, very fresh potatoes are so tender and delicately sweet, and have a firm, yet creamy texture. I love them boiled, roasted, and in potato salads, especially when the skin has been scraped, and there are colorful bits of skin still clinging to the potatoes.

According to a 1925 home economics textbook, School and Home Cooking by Carlotta A. Greer, potatoes are prepared for boiling by paring “them as thin as possible, or in the case of new potatoes, scrape them.”

My mother and grandmother taught me to scape potatoes with a paring knife, and it is very easy to do. The feathery skin is so different from the leathery skin of older potatoes. When I was recently scraping potatoes, it dawned on me that I never taught my children how to scrape them. In the big scheme of things, this is probably a minor omission, but it made me wonder if people commonly scrape new potatoes today. When scraping new potatoes, the potatoes should first be washed. The potatoes are then scraped by holding a paring knife at angle where the blade is dragging slightly against potato. The blade is then pulled across the potato to remove the skin. After the potatoes have been scraped, they should be rinsed to remove loose skin fragments. If desired, the potato eyes can be removed with the tip of the knife. It’s okay if some of the skin remains.

Old-Fashioned Harlequin Salad

The iconic novel jazz age novel, The Great Gatsby, was published in 1925. Here’s a description of the foods served at one of Gatsby’s parties:

On buffet tables, garnished with glistening hors d’œuvres, spiced baked hams crowded against salads of harlequin designs and pastry pigs and turkeys bewitched to a dark gold. In the main hall a bar with a real brass rail was set up, and stocked with gins and liquors and with cordials so long forgotten that most of his female guests were too young to know one from another (Chapter 3).

There apparently were a variety of salads that had “harlequin designs.” I knew that “harlequin” can mean a masked comic character who wears bright clothes, but I was uncertain of the meaning of the word in this context, so I looked it up. According the Cambridge Dictionary, another definition of harlequin is, “fancifully varied in color, decoration, etc.”

“Salads of harlequin designs” sounds beautiful, so when I came across a recipe in a hundred-year-old cookbook for Harlequin Salad, I just had to give it a try. The tasty, colorful, vibrant salad contained shredded red and green cabbage, chopped beets and carrots, peas, and onion in a vinaigrette dressing.

Here’s the original recipe:

Harlequin Salad recipe — Source: Rumford Complete Cookbook (1925)

The recipe called for French peas. I assumed this referred to green peas. It also called for white cabbage. I assume this is another name for the typical green cabbage.

I mixed all the ingredients together since the recipe said that “the effect is better if they are mixed,” though I’m intrigued by the possibility of creating an incredible harlequin design by arranging in “heaps.”

Here is the recipe for French Dressing that was in the same cookbook that contained the Harlequin Salad recipe:

French Dressing Recipe — Source: Rumford Complete Cook Book (1925)

Both the salad recipe and the salad dressing recipe called for salt and pepper (or paprika). I only put the seasonings in the dressing, and used 1/8 teaspoon of pepper and 1/8 teaspoon of paprika (as well as 1/3 teaspoon salt).

And, here’s the recipe updated for modern cooks:

Harlequin Salad

Servings: 5-7
Time: 25 minutes active prep time
Difficulty: moderate
Print

1 cup red cabbage, finely shredded

1 cup green cabbage, finely shredded

1 cup onions, chopped

1 cup green peas (I used frozen peas that had been thawed.)

1/2 cup cooked beets, coarsely chopped (cool before layering in jar)

1/2 cup cooked carrots, coarsely chopped (cool before layering in jar)

dressing (see below)

Put all ingredients (except dressing) in a bowl and lightly toss to mix. Gently stir in the dressing, then chill for at least an hour.

Dressing

1/3 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

1/8 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon prepared mustard

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons vinegar

Put the salt, pepper, paprika, and mustard in a small bowl; stir to combine. Add the olive oil and stir until mixed. Slowly add the vinegar, a little at a time, while stirring continuously with a fork.

http://www.ahundredyearsago.com